Every suit begins with one principle: nature knows best.
We work only with natural fibres and build jackets following classical tailoring principles. On this page we explain what that means. Which materials we choose, why we avoid polyester, and how a jacket keeps its shape year after year.
We work only with wool, Virgin Wool and cashmere. Nature has shaped these fibres over millions of years. That sets the best conditions for a piece of clothing that lasts.
Natural fibres breathe. They follow the body's movement without stretching out of shape. They regulate temperature, resist odour and age with grace rather than becoming faded and limp.
| Fibre | Properties | Season |
|---|---|---|
| Wool | Breathable, form-stable, durable. Naturally resists odour and creasing. | Spring, autumn, winter |
| Virgin Wool | Untouched fibres from the first shearing. Fine and soft, releases heat, doesn't trap moisture. | Year-round |
| Cashmere | Exclusive softness. Low weight, high warmth insulation. | Winter, coats, blends |
Polyester is marketed as easy to care for and inexpensive. Both are true. That's also why it dominates mass-market suits.
But there's a price you don't see on the tag. Polyester doesn't breathe. It traps heat close to the body, and traps odour with it. The material loses its sheen and structure after a few washes. The seams start to gleam. The lapels start to curl.
A polyester jacket typically looks fine for two years. A jacket in worsted wool looks fine for ten.
Even a 5-10% polyester blend changes the material's character. So we don't make blends. Our label reads either 100% natural fibres or a combination of several natural fibres.
What happens between the lining and the outer fabric. It determines how the jacket sits, and how long it holds its shape.
Multiple layers of canvas from shoulder to edge, joined by hand with pad stitches. Buttonholes, collar attachment and lined armholes are also done by hand. The canvas moulds to the wearer year by year. The jacket you pass on.
Same principle, but assembled with both hand and machine work. Multiple layers of canvas run from shoulder to edge, giving the jacket its shape and drape. Over time the canvas adapts to the body.
Canvas from shoulder through chest and lapel to the top button. The rest of the front panel uses a thinner interlining. A good balance of structure, weight and price. Our standard construction on made-to-measure.
The chest piece is removed, and only a small insert remains in the shoulder area. No shoulder padding. A light, soft jacket that follows the body. Well-suited to linen, summer wool and relaxed occasions.
How to choose. As a rule of thumb: the more you wear the jacket, and the longer you expect to have it, the more it makes sense to step up in construction.
| Construction | Character | Lifespan | Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full Canvas (hand-made) | Most hand-work. The canvas moulds to the wearer over time. | 20+ years | Made-to-measure, premium formal suits |
| Full Canvas | Multiple canvas layers from shoulder to edge. Gradual adaptation. | 15-20 years | Made-to-measure, formal |
| Half Canvas | Canvas from shoulder through chest and lapel to the top button. | 10-15 years | Made-to-measure, versatile |
| Unstructured | Without chest piece or shoulder padding. Soft drape, low weight. | 8-12 years | Casual and summer |
The Super grading tells you something about the fineness of the thread. Higher numbers aren't automatically better. It's a trade-off between drape and durability.
| Grading | Character and use |
|---|---|
| Super 100s - 120s | Standard choice. Durable, form-stable. Everyday wardrobe. |
| Super 130s - 150s | Finer thread. Softer drape. Best for office and events. |
| Super 160s+ | Very fine. Beautiful surface, but more delicate wear. For special occasions. |
We source materials from Italian and English mills that have supplied the tailoring trade for generations.
It's one thing to read about worsted wool and Full Canvas. It's another to hold the material.